Thursday, July 26, 2012
So how do you do a single blogg post for 10months of travel?
Facts and figures:
Countries visited = 20 (Includes ALL Central and South American countries + Cuba, excluding Guyana, Suriname & French Guiana)
Stamps in passport = 66
Distance on motorbike = 50000km
Front tyres = 3
Rear Tyres = 4
Chains = 4
Sprockets = 3 (front and back)
Oil changes = 15 (37.5 litres)
Crashes = 1 on tarmac; 3 into other bikes; 3 into other vehicles; many many more on dirt-sand-mud
Parts broken = footpeg; speedometer; clutch; GoPro; rear frame bolts; minimal plastic damage; x2 rear vision mirrors on cars (theirs not mine), number plate, front wheel hubb
Fuel used = approx 2500litres (cheapest at $0.01 per litre, most expensive at $2 per litre)
Cost = I would have paid more! Police bribed = 3 (Belize - the bribe was cheaper than the insurance, Honduras - no number plate; Nicaragua - $5 only to embarrass them by waving it around)
Police encountered without needing bribe = 100approx (typically gringo smile and ´no hablar espanol´ or take their photos)
I have a head full of fantastic memories and countless new friends, I thought that what I was undertaking i.e. riding a motorbike in central america was a unique way of travelling...given the number of bikers I now know that have done the same trip or more extreme versions I am going to have to go back to he drawing board an come up with a crazier way and place to travel to get my unique experience...How about taking a freighter ship to West Africa and travel war torn West African nations? oh well it will do for now anyway!
I often wondered if I was just going to get more of the same experiences going back to south america. Yes I did...fabulous amazing places should be visited more than once but the best part of this whole trip and favourite experience has been riding the motorbike...a totally new and wonderful way of travelling for me. The freedom and flexibility offered are priceless. Travelling by local bus is cheaper but you only get to stop in the towns\cities, the best food is roadside food, the best accommodation is your own tent with an unbeatable view and best of all the wind in your face while keeping it rubber-side down.
People keep asking how I have changed...I guess I feel I now take more risks...LIVE LIFE and take a few risks...trust me you will appreciate everything more than if you just have the experience handed to you. Facing death around each corner makes your breakfast taste nicer and appreciate how lucky you really are just to be breathing.
Pictures summarise the trip better than words so email me and I will give you the links.
I closed the "America's by bike" chapter by selling my Julia (a red KLR motorbike)...there were tears but I was reminded that she was just an object...like your favourite pair of shoes! She took me to some amazing places and we had some fantastic experiences but more importantly riding her allowed me to meet some fantastic people who I hope will stay in my life longer than a single pair of shoes/motorbike. To friends at home and abroad who have supported me also a big THANKYOU.
Bring on AFRICA
Friday, September 2, 2011
Adrian (Erks) and myself (Sega) are going to be riding motorcycles south down through Central and South America over the next 7 months. Generally our plan is to ride south down the western coast line to Ushuaia (Southern most point of South America) and back up through the east coast...but like all good plans this is only an outline. If you are still confused then it is going to be a trip like 'Long way round' or 'Long way down' without the assistance of a film crew, less expensive motorcycles and in the America's.
Thursday, September 1, 2011
A trip I undertook as pre-running for Central/South America Trip...3000miles later...I survived round ONE!
I decided to see the Valley of Fire and Death valley rather than the shorter easier ride across Area 51. The outstanding moment was riding the bike down Titus Canyon into death valley...lucky I was on a bike...the big American pickup trucks would not have fitted on this one-way road down the centre of the canyon. Death valley hit 127 F (52deg C) as I rode through...that's hotter than anything I think I have experienced...CRAZY and I was inside a black helmet wearing full motorcycle clothing...my own personal sauna!
Tuesday, June 14, 2011
If a bus was passing by with a destination I didn’t know, I probably wouldn’t jump on it...however when an opportunity to visit The Gambia (a country I couldn’t even place on any map) came up - how could I resist the temptation to travel there?
Hence I found myself flying via France for pastries, baguettes and cheese to Banjul the capital of The Gambia (please note that for some strange reason it is never just Gambia but always ‘The Gambia’).
This trip was not a solo affair and I was travelling with Abdou & Renee, friends from The Alice...lol (the)...and we were going to visit Abdou’s family as he is Gambian.
The Gambia is in on the West Africa coast surrounded by on all borders by Senegal...a couple of countries below Morocco...umm yeah...really is hard to find on a map as it is only 300km by 50km...smaller than England if that is possible to believe! It is a British colony and hence unlike Senegal (French colony) people learn English in school and this made it much easier for us to travel. However one should always learn few basics in the local language (Mandinka) so I learnt: Yes=Ha and No=Huni along with some formal greetings and thankyou. Consider now when a ‘bumster’ on the tourist beach asks if you ‘would like a boyfriend’! ...saying No in the local language felt even more odd as a response than the question even felt in the first place...Never have and will I call a boy “Honey”(Huni) but this is what it sounded like as I kept on running.
Banjul proved to be the typical African tourist hotspot and the swanky hotels and the beachside cafes were nice enough but not what I came to Africa to experience. Hence after a few days tidying up last minute errands we were headed up the River Gambia to Abdou’s family’s village – BrikamaBa.Our transport around The Gambia was a bright green diesel Mercedes – just like every other taxi only green and it had no holes in the floor (that I could see). It was ours for use with a driver, for the entire month for $300AUD...Bargain’s are easy to come by when it is not tourist season.
The first journey was typically African and we found that the suspension mounts had rusted through leaving us broken down 25% of the way to BrikamaBa. After some bush mechanics to remove the ‘noisy bits’ (the gas struts clunking with every bump) we continued at a much slower pace until the bitumen where we didn’t need the suspension of course...never mind the lack of stability on the road and feeling like you were riding in a saddle rather than a car seat.
The first I saw of BrikamaBa was at 12.30am whilst we were stopped to ask for directions. I woke up to a screech and crash as a motorbike ran into a donkey – TIA – “This Is Africa”. The next morning I found myself in a village of 3000 people and being the only “Toubab(s)” (White Person) meant we created quite the attraction. Each family had a compound; this is a fenced area with several houses, a toileting area, at least one mango tree to sit under and maybe a well (water) if they were lucky. Unfortunately our compound had a well and no gate...this meant the stream of people to come a see the elusive ‘Toubab’ was legitimised by the need for water.
We had come to The Gambia in the off-season...for good reason tourists don’t go to The Gambia in May...it is bloody hot...it would rival Alice Springs on a summers day...with no air-con or swimming pools though!
I had prepared myself for using a squat toilet (hole) and have never found a bucket bath a hassle in the past. However I assumed like any other village of 3000ppl BrikamaBa would have electricity...definitely not in all houses but at least at the shops. Hence I was even more impressed at how isolated I was as only a few shops had a generator to offer cold drinks, run a TV for cinema nights or the other necessities like sewing machines, welders, etc. There was lucky to be a handful of computers in town so internet was a far fetched idea but sadly the isolation was spoiled by the curse of mobile phones. Shops with a generator would offer charging for mobile phones and the selection of networks...amazing! Just like in Eastern Africa I was amazed at how Africans have embraced mobile technology as squander millions on txt msg’s and chat.
Over the 3½ weeks of living in BrikamaBa I tried to understand how life worked; what people did each day; what they wanted in life and other social questions. The following observations hence are with my western eyes...they will probably spark controversy but seeing-is-believing and truly some things you can never understand growing up in Australia.
Life for the women is hardest...they did everything around the compound and this was the limit of their world. Wake up in the morning and sweep the entire yard/house; fetch water all day long, not just turning on a tap but either walking to the communal tap or hauling it up from a well and then carrying 20litre buckets around on your head; going to the markets to buy food for the day (no refrigeration) was the highlight generally as they got to leave the compound and ‘shopping’ seems to be enjoyed by females world wide; cooking breakfast/lunch/?dinner (?if consumed at all) for the entire compound on a open fire...35deg and using a fire...HOT; laundry (by hand) and when this is all done a few hours rest before washing the children and themselves.
So after this hard day(s) work the men will relax in the evening listening to the radio/reading the Koran/talking to other men and of course enjoy more ‘Attaya’. At bed time he decides which wife (you can have up to 4) he wants to sleep with and more often than not she returns back to her own bed after he has finished the deed.
The children are moulded in the model of their parents so as soon as they are able help the girls will carry water and fetch things whilst the boys have considerably more time to play and practice making ‘Attaya’.
The Gambia is devoutly a Muslim country and this keeps the country safe due to its strict adherence to the Koran. Violent crime is almost non-existent and I never once felt my safety threatened. While AIDS has impacted heavily in other African nations, the religious restrictions on sexual freedom has reduced the spread considerably. Charity and helping support those less fortunate is a big part of the Koran and hence everybody shares everything (and has nothing). Their health I feel is preserved by the adherence to prayer and the ritual of cleansing (x5 per day they wash for prayer) and it gives them the spiritual comfort they need to get through the suffering and poverty around them. Hence living life by the Koran plays a big part on Gambians ambitions. The need for children and family was the core of their life. You may be struggling to feed your family but “Allah will provide” for another child if you have one. The children are raised as ‘Somebody to remember you and to support you when your old’...aka...your retirement package. Hence I couldn’t help but feel having a wife and children was more for economic reasons than love.
Prosperity was the other obvious ambition and sadly the only way out for many Gambians is to leave...make money in “Toubab-da-ville” and send it back to the family. Marrying a ‘Toubab’ or getting a ‘Toubab’ to sponsor you is the easiest way to achieve this hence I was a popular person to know in town...fat chance though!
Apart from observing this strange mix of economics/religion/?love? so very different home I had some fantastic experiences.
The boat trip to Baboon Island (a Chimpanzee refuge) will be long remembered for the comedy of errors and hilarity of each moment. Renee and myself enjoyed watching the Chimps hanging over the river whilst bailing (removing water in the boat) continuously so as not to sink. However trying to return to the port proved difficult as our outboard engine failed. 3-4hrs later slightly upstream after our paddling efforts (and sustaining ourselves on mangos pinched from beside the river) the mechanic started the boat and we returned our efforts to bailing out water again rather than both paddling and bailing! Why we trusted African transport let alone water transport shows our stupidity, but it was the best day we had in the Gambia.
Watching the craftsmen in town was one of my favourite past-times. The carpenters carving elaborate bed heads by hand; the tailor embroidering the prayer suits without a pattern replicating the magazine picture by eye;
Catching a donkey cart was a great way to get around if you could stomach the abuse the animal suffered on the journey.
Watching a haircut happening was very different to any other way of cutting hair – it reminded me of shearing wool.
Doing my own laundry always caused a stir as men never do laundry. Or the first time I was carrying water on my head, spilling it over me and the other women next to the well.
Food in The Gambia was interesting...until I got sick of rice! Every meal had the essential ingredients x1 cup Salt; x4 cups Oil; x2+sachet MSG; x15cups Rice (recipe was for x10 ppl) and the daily variation was either ‘boney’ fish; offal or ground nuts and a few random vegetables. Surprisingly though it became quite addictive to want/need that much salt, oil & MSG. The best part of eating was squatting and scooping the food out of a communal bowl with your RIGHT hand...anything tastes better out of your hand(s).
The Peace Corp has 3 goals: (1) Show people abroad some American culture (2) Report back to America about the culture she is experiencing (3) Offer support projects in either: education, health or agriculture.
Hence with my birthday coming up we decided to show her Gambian family how ‘we’ celebrate a birthday in the Western World (they don’t even recognise a birthday). We would throw “me” a party.
For my 27yrs356days birthday...I found myself making a Piñata. The Gambians at my compound thought I had gone crazy when I took a bag of lollies and covered them in newspaper glued with whitewash. It was a great birthday, everyone dressed in their formal Gambian clothes (including me); watching the kids smash the piñata; eating a birthday cake (a cornflake, peanut-butter and sugar biscuit); sing me happy birthday (none of them spoke English). As for a birthday present, I was give a ‘Ju-Ju’ which is a lucky charm worn by Africans. The one I wear containing charms for ‘Safe Travel’ and ‘Prosperity’.
Other notable experiences was the prayer session and my African prayer suit/costume;
going to and completing Friday prayer - then trying to figure out with the boys afterwards how I could be a Muslim yet still drink beer and eat pork!;
swimming across the River Gambia faster than the ferry while horrified Gambian’s watched (most Gambians cant swim or are scared by crocodiles & hippos);
getting used to seeing naked breasts...to the point of not even noticing them anymore...except to marvel at how one lady could breastfeed without taking the child off her back!;
playing soccer with the boys every night, coming home filthy from the dust and having to hide my shoes or the ladies would wash them.
We left BrikamaBa abruptly (hence we avoiding being asked for money by the entire town) and on the return trip to Banjul we visited Wassu Stone Circles. These have been compared to Stonehenge and were pretty impressive (although much smaller). I nor the archaeologists seem to understand why they were built but some ‘ancient peoples’ stood rocks in circles 1000s of years ago.
Banjul & civilisation meant turning a tap for water, beer and a swimming pool. It might have been the most I have ever paid on accommodation for myself (a whole $50AUD per night) but the luxury was worth it!Thanks to Abdou for inviting me to see his family; Renee for putting up with me and the assumption she was my wife for the entire trip; Numerous Gambians for their friendship and hospitality and glasses of ‘Attaya’; Erin for the insight into small village life; Roxi for giving me more travel ideas; and Allah for blessing me and letting me be fortunate enough to be able to go there... Allahu Akbar ;)
Wednesday, September 29, 2010
3.5months later I took him up on that offer and turned up on his doorstep (with some warning).
For the whole afternoon I was grinning ear to ear as he took me on a scenic tour. The weather was sunny and cloudless with minimal wind so we were able to fly closer to the mountains and glaciers than usual. Memories of this flight can be summarised with x3 moments
1. Flying over the glacier's and the glacier lakes. Looking down into the crevasses and that magic blue colour.
2. Landing next to a glacial lake and finding the canoe left for people to canoe around the icebergs on the lake...hence we did...WOW
3. Flying over bears, mountain goats and Dall sheep
The other Alaskans I meet that week were some young fella's who help me push the Red Rocket out of a glacier stream I had become bogged in...maybe parking in the creek to wash car wasn't such a great idea after all!
These guys after rescuing me and the rocket invited me on a canoe trip down the Kink river. What a way to spend the arvo, a lazy float down stream with beers and good company.
My last stop in Anchorage was a sad one as I left behind a family who had adopted me as a son. However we were able to have some great memories as we went Kayaking on several lakes, rode a GoldenWing bike, feasted on homecooked Ribs and pumpkin pie and I also did several walks - finally the Crow Pass was complete!
Driving south I was stunned at the fall colour's, the memory of golden yellow leaves blowing across the road will stay a lifetime. After a quick 1000miles I made it to Skagway where I could walk the Chilcoot Pass.
This historic walking track was a highway of men carrying supplies to the goldfields in 1898. I carried a respectable 50pounds but nothing on the 1000pounds that the Canadian official's demanded be taken as supplies to the goldfields to ensure people could survive the winter.
I also had stunning weather and was blown away by the scenery. To get back to Skagway I caught the WhitePass railway...WOW as train journeys go this one had the best views.
The Casiar Hwy is slower but more beautiful, so it was an easy choice to go this way. The signpost forrest in Watson Lake was bigger than could have ever imagined with people from everything leaving directions and distances to their homes.
The was plenty of wildlife (black bear in particular) alon the Casiar but also evidence of forrest fires, lakes, volcanoes and my last chance to enjoy spruce forrests. A side trip into Hyder was well worth it to drive so close to the glaicers.
I was fortunate enough to be able to drive Hwy 99 in canada not once but twice again...it is still the most beautiful hwy I have ever driven no matter what time of year!
I had some hastles getting back into the USA from customs...I had been over here to long for his liking and none of my answers were able to convince him that I was trying to living permantly in the USA. Finally after 50min of waiting I was through into the lower 48 again and had a win of sorts by breaking his stern face with the comment I just want to get home to see my mum!
I then heading to Crater Lake national park as the weather gods where being nice to me one last time! This volcanic crater is similar to Mt Gamiber in South Australia but MUCH MUCH bigger. I was convinced to go for a swim in it...rewards but cold. Hiked to the most amazing view points and realised I was not ready for children when I overheard a Dad explaining that he had to hold onto his kids tightly because he didnt want to have to climb down to rescuce them...I thought it would be much easier just to have another kid than climb down to get the stupid one who fell!
After Crater lake I decided i could squeeze the Lava Beds national park in also...well worth it to go caving on this trip. Seeing the flow paterns of the roack and walking through this geological gem was somehting else and also the amazing forests surround the national park.
I headed south again and this time just kept driving until I reached Los Angeles. I did so early Sunday morning and was exhausted but thogh i should wait until a respectable hour before waking Adrian. I lay down on the roof of the car to read my book and promptly fell asleep...the neighbours didnt like this and called the cops on me and was a classic ending to my drive south!
Over the 10days drove 4000miles, used 142gallons of fuel and spent umpteen hours behind the wheel. I had become attached the Red Rocket...the little gal just kept on going going going so to have to sell her was not easy...well emotionally anyway because it took less than 5hours once I had listed it online.
The last few days in LA I was to wrap myself in cotton wool to make sure my good luck didnt come crashing down...well i tried but them decide how often do you get to drive in chaotic traffic and do it in a monster truck...literally a BIG finale for a BIG holiday in a BIG country.
See you all in Australia very soon...
Monday, September 6, 2010
He came to Alaska to discover himself and did well enough to survive off the land (subsistence living) for over 100days. This requires some considerable skill but he also was way under prepared and forgot the some essentials which led to him starving to death in a remote area north of Denali NP (18years to the day I was there!).His home away from home and final resting spot was an old Fairbanks school bus aka the Magic Bus parked in the middle of nowhere along the Stampede Trail.The bus has become a pilgrimage sight of sorts to backpackers all over. Sadly many of these folk didn't learn from watching the movie or perhaps they didn't finish the book because the Stampede trail continues to claim lives. 3 days prior to me walking the trail a female backpacker was killed attempting to cross one of the glacial rivers, she fell and her backpack held her under the water.Walking the Stampede Trail was a beautiful trail leading to the bus 20miles from where you park your vehicle. I was warned by numerous locals and even a park ranger about the river crossings but when it came to it my long legs and that I use trekking poles make river crossings much easier than it was built up to be...I also crossed it the correct place and at the optimal time of day.As I walked around the corner of the trail to find the bus I felt something stir inside me, it happened again sitting inside the bus...I was surprised to have felt anything as I normally remain aloof to the touchy-feely crap associated with places...the place really did have a feeling to it...I guess it was striking a chord with how it easily it could be me through some simple errors finding my end in an isolate corner of the world.
Wednesday, September 1, 2010
Access into the NP is limited to a well run bus system, no private access is allowed and it caters nicely for as many tourists as it does. I unlike most tourists who only go on a day trip into the park, I went hiking for x5 days.
The bus trip in made me re-evaluate my plans as there was going to be a music festival that night so instead of camping by myself I followed the crowds and went to my first music festival. Being 90miles along dirt road with restricted access there was only 75-100people at the festival, the music was Bluegrass and Folk and it was a great evenings entertainment standing on the road with the stage also on the road...very low key and very cool. It was nice to wake up early though and escape the sea of humanity/tents and the few stoner's and drunks still up and about.I had planed on hiking further than I did the first day but between the incoming rain clouds, carrying a heavy pack of full of food/jumbo bear container and the constant bending over to pick handfuls of blueberries I didn't get far before setting up camp. However during arvo the sun came out and I started to get sick of blueberries so I found some amazing tunnels left behind from lakes in/on the glacier to climb around in.
I found ways to add blueberries to everything...the best by far was breakfast with porridge, almonds, cranberries and more fresh blueberries. Otherwise a blueberry crumble could be improvised by using a oats/honey bar sprinkled over the top after heating them. Yum Yum Yum! (it is also amazing the colour that they turn number 2's!)
The weather whilst in Denali NP was stunning...I saw the mountain for 4 consecutive days...most people don't even get to see the mountain as it hides itself in cloud 70% of the time. I was ambitious in my ridge climbing route and seemed to find the steepest points to climb over (would have been more fun without a 25kg bag on my back) but every time it was worth it for the views provided!
I saw numerous Grizzly bear feeding on the berries but there was x1 bear who rather than ignore me like every other bear decided to come within 15m and then do several bluff charges...it got my heart rate up anyhow! It was the first bear that wasn't scared of me...I didn't feel safe and the bear spray looks pretty small when a bear is that close. There was a classic moment when I was fumbling with the safety switch on the spray and I dropped the spray completely...I would have loved to seen my face at that stage scrabbling to find it while watching the bear getting closer and closer! Pity there are no photos...when I realised he was coming for me I put the camera away away quick smart and started screamed blue bloody murder at it. No amount of talking/screaming, clapping, banging my bear bell seemed to alert the bear to the fact I was not breakfast! I was backing away from the bear for 0.5mile before it decided that enough was enough and he went back to his berries felling pretty chuffed I'm sure that he got that response from me! I was pumping with adrenaline!!!
I had some amazing campsites, the most memorable was camping on top of a ridge when the weather changed later that evening...hail and snow decorated the tent nicely and between the squalls the rainbows over the tent made nice pictures!Following the national park I walked the Kesugi Ridge in the Denali State Park. This ridge line walk offers incredible views of the mountain and the colours were again beautiful.
I promised myself when I first got to Alaska to spend the money on a plane flight around Mt McKinley if the weather was clear enough. The day I got to Talkeetna where the airport is it was perfect! It is hard to describe the size of the cliffs carved out from the glacial action or the speed at which the 20,000ft peak rises out of the low-flat terrain to the north south. Landing on the glacier was so much fun and to see it in sunshine and perfect conditions made the flight worth every cent!With Denali done I had now just about 'finished' Alaska and I could say to everybody I had been everywhere in Alaska...more places than the person asking anyhow!